Nageshwarnath: the Shiva temple Rama's son built, in the city of Rama

The temple keeps darshan hours through the day, busiest on Mondays, Pradosh and the Shiva festivals. Approximate timings (confirm on the day):

The temple's origin is one of Ayodhya's loveliest stories. Kush, the younger son of Rama, was bathing in the Saryu when he lost his armlet in the water. A Nag-Kanya, a serpent-maiden, found it, and returning it, revealed her devotion, in some tellings her love. Because she was a devotee of Shiva, Kush built this temple to Shiva in her honour, and asked the Lord to remain at the spot for ever. So the Shiva temple of Rama's own city was raised by Rama's son, out of gratitude, for a devotee of Shiva. It is held to date from the Treta Yuga, a direct link to the age of the Ramayana.

From the ground: for my Telugu and Kannada guests I tell this story at the Saryu's edge before we enter. It answers the question visitors always ask, why a great Shiva temple stands in Rama's city, and it ties the two devotions, Rama and Shiva, together in one place.

Ayodhya is Rama's city above all, but Shiva is honoured here at its heart, and Nageshwarnath is that honour made stone. It is one of the very few shrines believed to have survived from the ancient age, in good repair even in the time of Vikramaditya, and tradition holds it was Nageshwarnath, still standing when much of Ayodhya lay lost under sand and forest, that helped King Vikramaditya rediscover the holy city and rebuild it. The present temple was raised in 1750 by Naval Rai, a minister of Safdar Jung. To Ayodhya's people, Baba Nageshwarnath is a guardian of the city itself.

Maha Shivratri (in February or March) is Nageshwarnath's greatest night, and lakhs come. The temple is dressed in flowers and light, the Shiva linga bathed and worshipped through the night with milk, water and bel leaves, and the highlight is the grand Shiva Baraat, the wedding procession of Shiva, carried on an ornate palanquin through Ayodhya's streets amid drums and incense. It is Ayodhya's own answer to the Shiva Baraat of Maha Shivratri in Kashi: the same great night, kept in Rama's city at the temple Rama's son built.

Through the holy month of Sawan (Shravan, mid-July to mid-August), Nageshwarnath fills with Shiva worship. Kanwariyas carry Ganga or Saryu water to pour over the linga in Jal Abhishek, the Mondays (Sawan Somwar) are especially crowded, and the whole month turns the Rama city briefly to Shiva, mirroring Sawan in Kashi. For a devotee doing the Saryu and the Ram Mandir, Nageshwarnath is the Shiva anchor of the Ayodhya Sawan.

Nageshwarnath stands right at Ram ki Paidi, the great stepped riverfront of the Saryu, the same place that hosts the daily Saryu Aarti and the Deepotsav lamps. It sits within easy reach of the Ram Janmabhoomi complex, Kanak Bhawan, Hanuman Garhi and the Saryu ghats, so it slots naturally into any Ayodhya darshan route, most of which include it. The temple faces the sacred river, and the sanctum holds the Shiva linga.

Devotees offer the classic gifts of Shiva worship: bel (bilva) leaves, water and milk poured over the linga, flowers, and dhatura. Bel leaves are especially dear to Shiva. During Sawan, the Jal Abhishek, the pouring of holy water, is the central act. Offerings are simple and inexpensive; nothing costly is required.

• The sanctum, for linga darshan: the heart of the temple; photography is restricted here.
• The Saryu steps at Ram ki Paidi, outside: for the river setting and the evening Saryu Aarti.
• The Shiva Baraat route on Maha Shivratri: to walk with the procession through the city.
• The temple on a Sawan Monday: for the fullest devotional atmosphere and the Jal Abhishek.

Nageshwarnath darshan is free, and the offerings are simple and cheap, bel leaves, water, a few flowers. Two honest points. Ram ki Paidi and the temple lanes are busy, and on Maha Shivratri and Sawan Mondays the crowd is very large; an early or off-peak visit is far calmer. And as at any busy shrine, be gently firm with anyone pressing costly pujas or large dakshina; a modest, dignified offering is entirely enough here. What we honestly arrange is the timing, the calm slot, the sequence with the Saryu Aarti and the Rama temples, and a guide who tells the Kush legend and keeps the visit smooth, not access, which is open to all.

Fly into Maharishi Valmiki International Airport, Ayodhya Dham, or Lucknow (about 135 km); trains serve Ayodhya Dham Junction. The temple is at Ram ki Paidi, central and walkable from the main Ayodhya sights. From Varanasi it is about 200 km, roughly four hours by Innova, the route our two-city itineraries run. Full detail in the How to Reach Varanasi guide.

Our packages base guests in comfort with a private Innova; a night in Ayodhya lets you take Nageshwarnath and the Saryu Aarti calmly in the evening and the Rama temples by day. Sawan and Maha Shivratri fill the town, so book early. More in the Stay & Hotels guide.

Nageshwarnath sits on every Ayodhya darshan route, so it is included in the 4 Days Ayodhya Varanasi Tour Package, ₹50,000 per couple (₹25,000 per person), alongside the Ram Mandir, Hanuman Garhi, Kanak Bhawan and the Saryu Aarti. For the Shiva festivals, a Maha Shivratri or Sawan itinerary can centre on it, on one flat rate: ₹12,500 per day for two guests, confirmed in writing before any advance. Browse all packages.