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Varanasi (Kashi): The Complete Guide to Kashi Vishwanath, the Temples, the Ghats and the Sacred Sites

The complete, first-hand guide to Varanasi, the eternal city of Kashi, the city of Lord Shiva upon the Ganga, from a guide who has taken pilgrims around it for more than forty years — Kashi Vishwanath, the great temples, the Ganga ghats and the Ganga aarti, the Bhairavs and the Devi, Sarnath of the Buddha, and everything you need to plan your visit.

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40+ years guiding pilgrims across Kashi, Ayodhya and PrayagrajOur own local guides and pandits in VaranasiRated by real pilgrims

Varanasi: the eternal city of Lord Shiva

Varanasi, the city of Kashi, upon the western bank of the holy Ganga, is one of the oldest living cities in the world, and the very holiest for the followers of Lord Shiva; for Kashi is the city of Shiva himself, the City of Light, which the Lord holds upon his trident, and which alone remains when all the worlds dissolve. It is one of the Sapta Puri, the seven sacred cities that grant liberation; and it is held, above every other place, that to die in Kashi is to attain moksha, release from the endless round of birth and death, by the grace of Shiva.

Its heart is the great Kashi Vishwanath, the Jyotirlinga of the Lord of the Universe; its soul is the Ganga and her ghats, where the great Ganga aarti is performed each evening and where the fires of Manikarnika never go out; and at its edge is Sarnath, where the Buddha first turned the Wheel of the Law.

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ॐWhere it all begins

Kashi Vishwanath: the heart of Varanasi

At the very heart of Kashi, and of the faith of every devotee of Shiva, is the Kashi Vishwanath temple, the shrine of Vishwanath, the Lord of the Universe, one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, the self-manifest lingams of light, and the holiest of all the temples of Shiva.

It is the goal of the whole Kashi pilgrimage, and, with the grand new Kashi Vishwanath Dham corridor that now opens the temple to the Ganga, its darshan is the first every pilgrim seeks. Begin here.

ॐThe city of Shiva

The great Shiva temples of Kashi

Kashi is a city of Shiva above all, and it holds his great temples beyond number, each a Mahadev of its own. Chief among them, after Vishwanath, is the Mrityunjay Mahadev, the conqueror of death; and there are the ancient Kardameshwar, the Trilochan of the three eyes, the Tilbhandeshwar, the leaning Ratneshwar, the Kedareshwar of Kedar Ghat, and the great new Vishwanath temple at the Banaras Hindu University.

ॐThe guardians

The Bhairavs: the guardians of Kashi

Kashi is guarded by the fierce forms of Shiva, the Bhairavs. Chief among them is the Kaal Bhairav, the Kotwal, the police-chief of the holy city, whose leave every pilgrim must seek; and there are the Batuk Bhairav and the Lat Bhairav, the guardians of the quarters.

ॐThe Mother

The Devi temples of Kashi

Kashi honours the Mother in her many forms: the Vishalakshi, the wide-eyed goddess, a Shakti Peeth where an earring of Sati fell; the Annapurna, the goddess of food, who feeds all Kashi; the Durga of Durga Kund; and the Sankata Devi, the reliever of troubles.

ॐHanuman, Ganesha and Vishnu

The other great deities of Kashi

Kashi holds too the temples of the other great deities: the Sankat Mochan, the beloved Hanuman temple founded by Tulsidas; the Sakshi Vinayak, the witness-Ganesha; the Adi Keshava, an ancient Vishnu at the meeting of the Varuna and the Ganga; and the Bindu Madhav, the presiding Vishnu of Kashi on the Panchganga Ghat.

ॐThe soul of Kashi

The Ganga ghats of Varanasi

The soul of Kashi is the Ganga and her ghats, the great flights of steps that line the river for miles, where the whole life of the holy city, and its death, is lived. Chief among them is the Dashashwamedh Ghat, where the grand Ganga aarti is performed each evening; and the Assi Ghat of the morning; and the Manikarnika, the great cremation ghat, where the fire of moksha never dies.

Along the river run the many storied ghats, of the kings and the saints and the sages.

ॐEvery evening

The Ganga aarti: the great evening ritual

Above all the sights of Kashi is the Ganga aarti, the grand ritual of worship offered to Mother Ganga each evening at the Dashashwamedh Ghat, when the young priests in their rows raise the great flaming lamps to the river in a slow, majestic dance of fire and chant and bell, and thousands watch from the steps and the boats.

A gentler aarti is offered at the Assi Ghat, with the Subah-e-Banaras welcoming the dawn. To see the Ganga aarti is the unforgettable heart of any visit to Kashi.

Ganga aarti at Dashashwamedh

Ganga aarti at Dashashwamedh

The grand evening aarti, with its rows of priests and great flaming lamps.

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Morning aarti at Assi Ghat

The gentler dawn aarti and the Subah-e-Banaras.

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ॐThe Buddha's first sermon

Sarnath: where the Buddha first taught

A short way from Kashi is Sarnath, one of the four holiest places of the Buddhist world; for it was here, in the deer park, that Lord Buddha, after his enlightenment, first turned the Wheel of the Law, preaching his first sermon to his five disciples, and so set the Dharma in motion.

Sarnath holds the great Dhamek Stupa that marks the spot, the ancient ruins and the museum with the famous Lion Capital of Ashoka that is the emblem of India, and the beautiful temples raised by the Buddhist nations of the world.

ॐMuseums and forts

The heritage of Kashi

Kashi keeps its heritage too: the great Bharat Kala Bhavan, the art and history museum at the Banaras Hindu University; the Ramnagar Fort, the palace of the Maharaja of Banaras across the river; the Bharat Mata Mandir, the temple of Mother India with her marble-relief map; the beautiful wooden Nepali temple; and the birthplace-temple of the saint Ravidas.

ॐThe greatest days

Mahashivratri and Dev Deepawali

Kashi's greatest days are two above all. Mahashivratri, the great night of Shiva, is the supreme festival of the city of Shiva, when Kashi Vishwanath is thronged through the night.

And Dev Deepawali, the Diwali of the Gods, fifteen days after Diwali on the full moon of Kartik, is Kashi's own spectacular festival, when every one of the ghats along the Ganga is lit with countless earthen lamps, and the whole riverfront becomes a river of light, a sight beyond describing. Ask us for the dates and plan well ahead; these are the most beautiful and the busiest times to come.

ॐBefore you go

Planning your visit to Varanasi

Best time to visit

October to March is the pleasant season; Dev Deepawali (November) and Mahashivratri (February to March) are the greatest and busiest days; avoid the peak summer heat.

How to reach

By air to Varanasi (Lal Bahadur Shastri) airport; by rail to Varanasi Junction and the other stations, a great railway hub; by road from Prayagraj (about 120 km), Lucknow and Ayodhya.

How many days

Two to three days for Kashi Vishwanath, the ghats and the Ganga aarti, the main temples and Sarnath; more for the Panchkroshi and a fuller visit.

The essential experience

A dawn boat ride on the Ganga past the ghats, and the evening Ganga aarti at Dashashwamedh.

The three cities

Varanasi pairs naturally with Ayodhya and Prayagraj in one great pilgrimage.

For Varanasi, or a combined Kashi, Ayodhya and Prayagraj pilgrimage planned end to end, see our tour packages. See tour packages.

ॐWhat we run

Our Varanasi tours and the three-city pilgrimage

We are a Varanasi, Ayodhya and Prayagraj based operator, a unit of Experience My India, with more than forty years of guiding pilgrims across all three holy cities, and our own local guides and pandits in Varanasi. Darshan everywhere is free; what we offer is the whole of it made smooth, meaningful and complete.

Varanasi darshan tour

Kashi Vishwanath, the ghats, the Ganga aarti, the main temples and Sarnath, with a guide. Two to three days.

Pricing

On request

Dawn boat and Ganga aarti

The sunrise boat on the Ganga and the evening aarti at Dashashwamedh, with a guide.

Pricing

On request

Dev Deepawali / Mahashivratri

Kashi at its great festivals, with darshan and all arrangements.

Pricing

On request

Kashi, Ayodhya and Prayagraj

The great three-city pilgrimage, planned end to end, with a guide.

Pricing

On request

Experience My India is a travel operator, not the temples' administration. Darshan is free; our charge is only for guiding, transport, boats, the pandit and services. Inclusions and exclusions are stated up front, and no charge appears later that was not named. Timings, dates and rules are set by the temples and authorities and can change.

ॐFirst-hand

The eternal city, in my own words

Kashi is my own city, and I have guided pilgrims here for more than forty years, and I love it beyond words. I always begin with a dawn boat on the Ganga, when the sun rises over the river and the whole sweep of the ghats comes alight; there is nothing like it on earth. Then I take my guests to seek the leave of Kaal Bhairav, the Kotwal of Kashi, and to the darshan of Baba Vishwanath, our Jyotirlinga, now so beautiful with the new corridor down to the river.

From there the whole city opens: the Bhairavs and the Devi, the Annapurna who feeds us all, Sankat Mochan of our Tulsidas, the countless Mahadevs; and always, in the evening, the great Ganga aarti at Dashashwamedh. And I take my guests to Manikarnika, and I explain, gently, why people come from all over the world to die and be cremated in Kashi: because here, by the grace of Shiva, the soul is set free.

And I take them out to Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon, and to our great Dev Deepawali, when a million lamps turn the ghats to a river of light. In more than forty years of guiding, sharing Kashi, the eternal city of Lord Shiva, with those who come to it is the great work and joy of my life.

Rajeev Sharma, guide with Experience My India
ॐGo further

The three holy cities: Kashi, Ayodhya and Prayag

Varanasi is one of the three great holy cities of the region, and pilgrims most often visit all three together in one journey.

ॐCommon questions

Frequently asked questions

What is Varanasi famous for?+

The Kashi Vishwanath Jyotirlinga, the Ganga ghats and the evening Ganga aarti, Manikarnika and the belief that dying in Kashi grants moksha, and its countless temples; and Sarnath nearby, where the Buddha first taught. It is one of the oldest living cities on earth.

What is Kashi Vishwanath?+

The temple of Vishwanath, the Lord of the Universe, one of the twelve Jyotirlingas and the holiest temple of Shiva; the heart of the Varanasi pilgrimage, now with its grand new corridor to the Ganga.

What is the Ganga aarti in Varanasi?+

The grand evening ritual of worship to Mother Ganga at Dashashwamedh Ghat, with rows of priests raising great flaming lamps to the river; a gentler aarti is offered at Assi Ghat.

What are the main ghats of Varanasi?+

Dashashwamedh (the Ganga aarti), Assi, Manikarnika (cremation and moksha), Harishchandra, Panchganga, Kedar, Man Mandir, Tulsi and many more, along miles of the riverfront.

Why do people come to die in Varanasi?+

It is believed that to die and be cremated in Kashi, above all at Manikarnika, grants moksha, liberation from the cycle of birth and death, by the grace of Shiva.

What is Sarnath?+

The deer park near Varanasi where Lord Buddha gave his first sermon, one of the four holiest Buddhist sites, with the Dhamek Stupa, the museum of the Lion Capital, and international temples.

What is Dev Deepawali?+

Kashi's own festival of lights, fifteen days after Diwali, when every ghat along the Ganga is lit with countless lamps and the whole riverfront becomes a river of light.

How many days do I need in Varanasi?+

Two to three days for Kashi Vishwanath, the ghats and the Ganga aarti, the main temples and Sarnath; more for a fuller visit or the Panchkroshi.

How do I reach Varanasi?+

By air to the Varanasi (Lal Bahadur Shastri) airport, by rail to Varanasi Junction, or by road from Prayagraj (about 120 km), Lucknow and Ayodhya.

Can I visit Ayodhya and Prayagraj too?+

Yes; Varanasi, Ayodhya and Prayagraj are usually visited together in one great three-city pilgrimage, which we plan end to end.

Author & sources

Written by Rajeev Sharma. A guide with Experience My India, a travel operator that has guided pilgrims across Kashi, Ayodhya and Prayagraj for more than forty years.

Last updated 27 August 2026. Standard references and Varanasi sources, cross-checked: Kashi as the eternal city of Shiva and one of the Sapta Puri, with the Kashi Vishwanath Jyotirlinga, the great Shiva temples, the Bhairav guardians, the Devi (Vishalakshi, Annapurna and others), the Ganga ghats and the Ganga aarti, Manikarnika and the belief in moksha, the temples of Hanuman, Ganesha and Vishnu, Sarnath of the Buddha, and the museums and heritage — drawn from those references and from our own long guiding of the city. Each site's own guide page carries its detailed, verified information. Timings and festival dates are reconfirmed before each publish.

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