There is a particular feeling that comes over pilgrims at Naimisharanya, and it is different from the charged devotion of Ayodhya. Ayodhya is a birthplace, loud with love and longing; Naimisharanya is a forest of listening, quiet and old, and the quiet is the point. This is the place where, tradition holds, the great narrations happened - where the sage Suta told the Puranas and the Mahabharata to a gathering of eighty-eight thousand rishis who had come together to hear the truth set down for the coming dark age.
The heart of it is Chakra Tirth, a round tank of still water that pilgrims circle and bathe in, said to mark the very spot where Lord Vishnu's discus fell to earth and sanctified the forest. To sit at its edge in the evening as the aarti lamps are lit, with far fewer people around you than at any famous temple, is to feel why the sages chose this of all places to gather. Near it are the Vyas Gaddi, the seat of Veda Vyasa, and the Suta Gaddi - the literal places, in the tradition, where scripture passed from memory into word.
Naimisharanya is also a Shakti Peeth. The Lalita Devi temple here marks one of the spots where, in the story of Sati, a part of the Goddess is said to have fallen, and so the forest holds both Vishnu and Devi, sage and scripture, in one small compass. A little further at Misrikh is Dadhichi Kund, honouring the rishi who gave up his own bones so that the gods could be armed against the demons - one of the supreme acts of sacrifice in all the tradition, remembered at a quiet tank most Indians have never heard of.
Coming here at the end of an Ayodhya pilgrimage gives the whole trip a kind of rhyme. You begin at the Janmabhoomi, where a story entered the world as a living child; you end in the forest where stories entered the world as words to be kept forever. For a devotee who loves not only Lord Ram but the whole scriptural tradition he belongs to, there is no more fitting way to close the journey.
Experience My India includes Naimisharanya not as a bolt-on but as the deliberate culmination of the five days, with a guide who can tell you what you are looking at, because unexplained, these quiet tanks and seats can pass unnoticed - and explained, they are among the most moving places you will ever stand. Jai Shri Ram.